Hellbender – Queens, NY

The inside of Hellbender embodies the hip, eccentric style of its Ridgewood patrons. A massive three-dimensional leopard print dominates one wall, while bright furniture and wallpaper bordering on gaudy adorn the rest. Somehow, it works.

Oftentimes, one’s perception of a place can be shaped by a single interaction. The shocking exuberance of our server at Hellbender was one of those moments. Beyond that experience, it was clear that each person working there was invested in adding their own personal touch—albeit in a very New York way.

Hellbender was recently named one of New York’s top 100 new restaurants, which naturally made me wary. Recognition like that can sometimes lead to declining quality and rising prices. Hellbender, however, does its utmost to live up to the hype. Most dishes lean toward well-above-average rather than mind-blowing, which begs the question: why the list?

The answer lies in two dishes—the masa pancakes and the soft egg tostada. The tostada is a wonderful example of Chinese–Mexican fusion, with chili crunch topping a soft egg and homemade beans atop a crunchy base. The masa pancakes were the clear winner. Calling them pancakes may be generous (think pan-cakes): crispy on the outside with a warm, slightly savory interior. They reach peak form with just the right drizzle of maple syrup—and maybe the thick-cut bacon, if you’re feeling indulgent.

Best Bite: The pancakes with belly bacon are as succulent as they are indulgent.